Morocco – Day 3 – Fez -> Ifrane -> Midelt -> Er Rachidia -> Tinghir (518 km)
In the morning we decided to ride to the famous tanneries of Fez. They could not be seen, but we already sensed the smell of them. The leather skin is always transported in by cars and there’s always something that “falls” and will begin to deteriorate. In addition, waste is thrown into the river and often lies on its banks decomposing. The stench is terrible. Going into one of the buildings (the store with a roof terrace) the owner distributes fresh mint or other herbs, in order to be able to apply it to the nose and alleviate the odor.
However, there is a magnificent view of the tannery from the top of the hill. Last year it was renovated and now it is working in all its glory. Apparently, pigeon droppings are used in the tanning of hides and such an awful smell comes from them. During the dyeing only natural ingredients are used. After watching the whole process, you can put the leather on or products derived from them. The only pity is that the prices are typical tourist ones.
In the surrounding cedar woods near Azrou we stopped at one of the parking areas to see macaque monkeys, which are such a small tourist attraction. The monkeys are already highly trained by tourists and can surprise us by their cunningness and intelligence in the acquisition of food.
The Ziz gorge made the biggest impression on me on this day. Although the team was quite sharply racing ahead, I couldn’t resist standing and stopping to take pictures when seeing such amazing shades of red and orange. The unprecedented arrangement of rocks and their groove by the river created quite an amazing landscape. Coupled with the sunset and the play of colours and shades, no one will cross the gorge regardless. We went through one tunnel called Za’bal, more commonly known as Legionnaires tunnel, built about 1930.
At the end of the day, long after sunset, we got to the hotel a few kilometers from Tinghir. That day I was terribly tired. High temperatures, gorges, mountains and a lot of riding gave me life a misery. Fatigue was eased incredible by the atmosphere of the hotel, where the owner not only prepared a delicious dinner with a real tagine, but also sat down with us with a bottle of whiskey gave a great concert by singing and playing the drums. After a while there were also locally produced cigarettes.
Advice: In Morocco the GSM network runs quite well, but connections to Poland are very expensive. The alternative is the Internet. Unfortunately, most IMs are blocked when it comes to voice calls. Fortunately, text messaging functions. Throughout the trip I tried to connect by voice to Face Time, WhatsApp, Skype …but to no avail. I connected by Messenger only on two occasions. I also noticed that the WiFi network in hotels and bars couldn’t always connect by iphone. It is worth having any Android device with you because that connects seamlessly.