Day 13 – Torshavn -> Kvívík -> Saksun -> Dúvararður -> Tjörnuvík -> Eiði -> Gjógv -> Slættaratindur Molin
The ferry reached the Faroe Islands on time. The ramp opened at three o’clock in the morning and we rode to Thorshavn into the wall of rain. It was completely dark, wet, cold and there was a lot of wind. Somehow anticipating a problem with the weather and the early hour, I entered the nearest campsite on the sat-nav and we headed towards it.
Fortunately, the campsite was less than one and a half kilometers from the port. Although there were several cars in front of the campsite, we didn’t have to wait for motorbikes. We drove straight into the interior choosing a place as close as possible to the building.
Adam decided to sleep on the sofa in the room by the dining room. Since there were already a few people in the room who were snoring quite loudly, I decided not to use it. I pitched up my tent in literally a moment and jumped into the sleeping bag and I fell asleep immediately.
I was awakened by the sun and the warmth in the tent. It was a little windy outside. Most importantly, it wasn’t raining, which was a good omen for the next three days that we were going to spend here.
After breakfast, which I prepared in a very comfortable kitchen, I spent a little more time planning to explore the islands. Earlier I had only marked places on the sat-nav that were worth visiting and now was the time to plan your route.
The Faroe Islands archipelago is not large. Its span is about 80 km wide and the same height. Three days is quite a lot of time to safely ride them on a motorbike.
I decided to ‘finally’ leave the city of Torshavn. We didn’t leave the campsite before one in the afternoon and choose route number 50, which is marked on the signposts with a flower. This symbol indicates that the road will be very scenic and panoramic. Climbing up we had the opportunity to really admire the beautiful views. The greenery is striking first and foremost as well as its infinite shades throughout the island.
About halfway through Route 50 we stopped to take pictures. There is a view of the fjord and Kollafjordur Bay from a height of several hundred meters. You need to watch out for sheep that are literally everywhere and often cross the road. Anyway, there are more sheep here than inhabitants.
We arrived to Kvívík after several dozen kilometers. Apparently it is one of the oldest fishing settlements which goes back to the times of the Vikings. There is also a small parish church from 1903 which is worth coming and seeing. The village is really pretty. I left the motorbike at the small marina and went for a walk. When I came back I made myself a coffee to feel the atmosphere of the village for a longer moment in time.
An elderly gentleman came to me and talked when I was drinking coffee. Although his broken English did not allow too much information to be exchanged, in short he praised calmness and slow time, but complained that all young people leave not only Kvívík but generally escape from the Faroe Islands.
We set off further northwest, after a longer break, in order to reach the large village of Vestmann a few kilometers on. The place itself may not be distinguished by anything special, except that there is a port here from where daily small boats full of tourists who want to see the birds nesting in the cliffs up close sail from.
If you do not intend to go by boat, it is worth visiting the Saga Museum for a moment, where there are 17 wax figures, which in a very realistic way depict the life story of people in the Faroe Islands.
In the very centre of the settlement there is also a large size waterfall (for these islands). You can stop on the other side of the road and go to see it.
Only one road reaches Vestmann and it ends here, so there was nothing else to do but turn back and get back to Route 10. There is a closed whaling settlement while riding along the Strait of Sundini, near Vid Air. You can see old machines, boilers and a trap specially prepared for pulling in whales. I admit it made me feel depressed.
Fortunately, we again took the next route marked with the flower. This time it was to ride a fairly long road, starting in the village of Hvalvík up to Saksun. A deep gorge in the centre runs through this village, with the unique Dúvararður museum where can see how people used to live here. Since the weather got bad outside, I decided to order coffee and a delicious cake which was served by two girls who “look after” the museum. Since the weather got bad outside, I decided to order coffee and a delicious cake which was served by two girls who “look after” the museum.
There is an old church with a grassy roof at the bottom of the gorge, with a bay in the background. If it’s just a low tide, you can walk down the beach to the bay and ocean.
Since it was raining a bit, I decided to ask for a refill of coffee and another piece of cake baked by them. We rode through the valley to the other side of the island returning the same way back, and there the weather is radically different. This time we follow Route 594 north towards Tjörnuvík.
It cleared up and the sun came out, so I decided to take advantage of the moment and stop at a small parking area by the waterfall. There was a stone table and benches where I prepared dinner.
We reach Tjörnuvík which is a charming village on the north of the island of Streymoy. The tiny bay is surrounded by very high mountains. In winter, the mountains cover the sun completely. There is a beautiful, black beach, from which there is a view of the high cliffs to Eysturoyon, the other island where, less than 5 km from the bay, there are the famous rocks called Risin og Kellingin (i.e. a giant and a woman who, according to legend, were to attract the Faroe Islands back to Iceland).
Tjörnuvík is also one of the oldest settlements in the Faroe Islands, remembering the times of the Vikings. The bay is open directly to the ocean, which is why it is very difficult to navigate. However, surfers enjoy it, and they come here from all over the world to surf on the biggest waves.
In the very centre of the village there is a bar with a table outside in which, by the way, there are amazing, traditional buildings. Tourists who descend from the surrounding mountains can sit down, relax, drink and try local specialties. We have just met such a group. I admit that I was impressed not only with their appropriate shoes, protectors, jackets and backpacks, but above all the condition, especially since they were people slightly over sixty. There is a difficult trail that connects Tjörnuvík and Saksun. Its crossing of the mountains takes over 3 hours, the hardships are rewarded by views not seen anywhere else.
You need to go back about 15 km on yourself in order to travel to the next island, which is Eysturoy. We arrived at Eiði around 8pm. There is a campsite literally a kilometer north of its centre right next to the ocean. It is actually an artificial turf pitch where the caravans park. There is a kitchen and dining room in the small building next to it, on the first floor, and at the bottom of the bathroom and toilet. The tent can be pitched next door, because there is no chance of putting a herring on the “pitch”. We decided to spend the night in the dining room because there were few tourists, spreading foam pads late in the evening and jumping into our sleeping bags.
In the evening we went for a walk to the ocean, admiring the strength and power of its waves, which crashed at a considerable height of klf. Although we travelled a little over 150 km that day, we’d seen quite a lot, so we quickly went to sleep tired.